Averaging 14,000 steps a day in Tokyo as a stationery addict
Stationery, cream soda, and wagyu beef
After spending five hours unpacking and organizing my haul, I figured that I should start writing about my spectacular trip to Japan this fall while my memories are fresh.
Hello, I’m back from Japan, where I enjoyed two blissful weeks surrounded by delicious foods, stationery heaven, friends, and family, with adult money to spend AND the weak yen on my side. To say that I’ve indulged is the understatement of the year.
This is THE Japan trip I’ve been anticipating the most. I was armed with knowledge about where I could buy special edition stationery, reserved amazing restaurants that I could only dream of, and prepared to visit special sights made even grander with peak fall leaves. Learning from last year’s painful mistake, I even started training for steps at my local gym two months prior so my body wouldn’t wimp out in the face of adventure.
Even better, a few of my stationery friends are along for the ride as we all visit the country at the same time, and it's as if we’re taking a stationery and pen tour together outside of a show.
So much to see and do in Tokyo
Tokyo is packed with things, people, tourists, and endless experiences. I easily filled my 7-day Tokyo itinerary with things to do and places to visit. Of course, stationery shops and pen stores are conveniently added to my plans. However, I was also looking forward to seeing sights that are new and exciting.
One special event I didn’t plan was the special exhibit “Claude Monet: Journey to Series Painting” that was going on at The Ueno Royal. In fact, I learned about it from the small television on the backseat of our taxi from the airport to our hotel. An opportunity to see more than 60 pieces of artwork by Claude Monet in one place? I can’t pass this opportunity up! Fortunately, I was able to secure a ticket only the day before through their online site.
The actual event blew me away. So many pieces of Claude Monet were all squeezed into the small museum, graced by a large population of Japanese ladies who didn't have to go to work on a Tuesday morning. Although we had to shuffle along with the crowd, I thoroughly enjoyed the show. I also picked up some souvenirs themed after the iconic paintings. Do not underestimate the power of Japanese gift store offerings. I bought postcards, handkerchiefs, and even pillow cushions.
Visiting this exhibit also allowed me an excuse to visit the Pensta Cafe, a coffee shop and souvenir store dedicated to the penguin mascot iconic to the Japan Rail East train system. It was conveniently located inside the Ueno JR station before we exited the park. I enjoyed my latte with Suica art and dessert for breakfast!
Another landmark I was excited to explore along with my family was the new observation deck called Shibuya Sky. Near sunset, an elevator takes you to the 360-degree rooftop of Shibuya Scramble Square. The open-air glass escalator is thrilling and fun. Although the view is slightly hazy, we were even able to make out the silhouette of Mt. Fuji on the horizon.
One deck below, indoors, I enjoyed a melon soda float while looking out at the glittering lights of Shibuya, Tokyo Tower gleaming within the stunning cityscape. It is an experience I’d recommend to anyone who wants to enjoy seeing the city from atop.
Before I indulged in my own hobbies, I accompanied my husband to his. We scouted out a special model car store called Make Up Co. Ltd, nestled within the neighborhoods of Aoyama, an affluent part of town. Small gleaming model cars sit neatly next to each other in glass display cases. Elliot poured over each one like I would over a case of fountain pens. The store owner wasn’t eager to make any sales, as if he was confident that enthusiasts would be enthusiasts and purchase these car models in the end.
And he sure did.
Since Elliot dragged me out to his hobby store. I had to return the favor and take him to a special pen store only 5 minutes away. Shosaikan Aoyama is a boutique pen store with a vintage interior. The staff also expected me to know my pens and offered little assistance. And if you did ask, they will gracefully handle each pen with rubber gloves upon velvet trays to let you marvel at the pens in detail. I only made a short stop there as we were on a tight schedule to meet the rest of the family for dessert. The hasty visit also made me miss out on the special store-exclusive ink (which I’ll have to ask Kelly for a sample of).
I’ve been to Asakusa many times, but rarely did I get to explore the backstreets (or Shita-machi) area.
The in-laws wanted to purchase a Japanese knife for the kitchen, so I steered them to Kappabashi Dougu Street. The two sides of the road were lined with stores selling kitchen utilities, knives, cups and bowls, and more. I laughed at the huge chef statue standing guard above the entry of the region. Even we bought a knife for our kitchen!
It was my luck that I happened upon the Asakusa region just in time for the famous Tori-no-ichi 酉の市, a festival that celebrates and brings fortune to businesses for the next year. It is held at the Ohtori Shrine a bit north of Asakusa, and during the 24 hours of the festival, you will see people hauling wreaths made out of bamboo and decorations. They are shaped like bear paws, designed to rake in fortune and prosperity.
Last year, I had the chance to walk through the shrine a few days before the festival, since it was located in the neighborhood with workshops of brass craftsmen that produce parts for PLOTTER leather binders. This year, I thought, why not take a look when the festival is in full force?
I totally regretted it halfway there, because I was swept into the swarm of crowd that were all joining in on the festivities, whether it was in the main queue to enter the small shrine or along the sidestreets lined with festival snacks and food. It felt as if a quarter of the city was crammed into that small neighborhood.
Despite the ordeal (and my feet feeling like they were about to fall off at that point), I was rewarded with the majestic sight of a wall of lanterns. People weave throughout the wreath market picking out the best fortune wreath to take home. Wreath sellers gather around you and cheer you on when you make a purchase. I picked up a lucky charm to wish myself luck for the next year.
At this point, you’ll probably have guessed that although I’ve made detailed plans by the half-hour increments in my PLOTTER for this trip, I ended up being swept into spontaneous adventures such as these.
Another example was my solo trek to Tsujiki Market early in the morning because no one else in my party wanted to get up that early. That ended up working out for me because I only had one goal, to eat the ultimate uni-covered rice bowl. I did not want anyone to hinder my pace and slow me down as I raced to queue at 7 in the morning. I got there at 7:10 AM and resorted to an hour-long wait before I got to meet the majestic dish.
Going solo has its advantages, I get to be seated sooner as well! The dish contains 5 distinct uni from various regions and they all taste unique and delicious on my tongue. The luxury of the vacation means that after the early morning trip, I get to relax and enjoy the rest of the morning back in the hotel bed until noon. It was at that moment that I truly felt like I was on vacation.
Oh, and the bath fiend that I am, I took full advantage that there is a bathhouse included in the hotel amenities. Every night (and sometimes in the morning), I get to soak my poor legs and body in hot water, rejuvenating me for my next adventure. Enjoying a good soak whether in the bathhouse or an onsen had become a ritual for me in Japan. Especially during the winter, the luxury of a bath is extremely welcoming after averaging 14,000 steps during my first week in Tokyo.
Stationery everywhere you go
When I knew a few friends would be in Tokyo the same week I was there, we immediately made plans to meet up and enjoy the stationery scene together. Out of our precious itinerary, we carved out two days to meet up with local friends and enjoy exploring stationery stores and experiences.
The first unique event was a special workshop by none other than Eric Small Things at the physical store of Cute Things From Japan. I suffered zero jet lag and was able to make it to Ayako’s store bright and early. She was generous enough to coordinate this special event so that those of us who missed out on the workshop since San Francisco Pen Show could get together and take the rubber stamp carving lesson from her. We also invited a lot of our local stationery friends to join in the fun.
I attempted poorly to carve a cream soda stamp (because I had to, and because everyone else is already doing it). Despite the struggle, we had so much fun chatting and learning tips and tricks from Eric.
We also got to explore Cute Things From Japan physical store in detail since their move to the new location. The entire store had a transformative makeover with beautiful wooden touches, special lights, and modifiable walls for hanging and displaying all kinds of cute stationery. Ayako really goes the lengths to ensure that her store always has the best selection of sticker seals, stamps, and tapes for journaling enthusiasts. It was an honor to enjoy her store via a private shopping session (because we visited on one of her “closed” days).
The train to stationery adventure didn’t end there.
The entire group then moved to Nakameguro to visit the TRAVELER’S FACTORY flagship store.
The wooden attic was a nice reprieve for us to recover from our shopping spree downstairs as we enjoyed sips of ginger ale and lemon tea. At the TF store, it is easy to find gifts for friends because they carry unique tools and items that even non-stationery enthusiasts would find interesting. I enjoyed collecting the special stamps in my TRAVELER’S notebook, and of course, picked up some new items from recent collaborations such as the Kanaya Hotel release.
I have always wanted to visit Okamotoya, a store that sells a wide selection of Tono & Lims special edition inks. I dragged the entire party along (some already getting tired and ready to tap out).
This two-story store sells traditional office supplies, stationery, and a great selection of special inks. We had fun poking amongst the rows of ink bottles with cute label designs. It was hard to make a final decision, but I ended up with three bottles of inks to go. And a Suica penguin yearly calendar.
With some time to spare for the rest of the day, we proceeded to squeeze in a quick visit to Ancora, Ginza LOFT, and Itoya. Ancora is the special flagship store for Sailor fountain pens, and I revisited the store two more times to purchase special edition inks that were available spontaneously throughout our trip. I scored a bottle of ink inspired by “yaki-imo”, a special baked sweet potato snack available during winter months. On my last day in Tokyo, it drizzled in the morning, and so the special “ame”, or rain, ink was available throughout the day at the store.
I broke the bank at Itoya, splurging on a limited edition PLOTTER that I didn’t expect to purchase. However, the word “limited” or “special edition” gets me every time and I couldn’t help but pick up the uniquely wax-washed pink leather binder in Bible Size to commemorate the trip.
On this trip, I also frequented Ginza LOFT several times, picking up small stationery pieces here and there. I ended up helping my sister pick out a PLOTTER as well, a Pueblo leather binder in Mini Size. My favorite finds from LOFT, though, were postcards and small items with illustrations by Natsuka Murata, who draws shiba inus posing with delicious snacks! Her illustrated monthly calendar has made an appearance in my home for the past three years.
Another place I didn’t expect to splurge at was Maruzen, at both the Marunochi and Nihonbashi locations. This bookstore has a dedicated fountain pen and ink station and often flaunts limited edition and store-exclusive inks and pens. I have already asked a friend to help me secure two very special pens before my trip: a Platinum 3776 Ouka (桜華), produced by pen doctor Shishikura for Sunrise Trading, and the 1917 Resin, a Sailor Pro Gear Slim Mini in the iconic green and peach colorway.
Now, let me share the story of how a pen purchase led to another pen purchase. To complete the 1917 Resin colorway match, I needed to pick up a bottle of Maruzen’s unique ink bottles (of which the unique bottle shape was laser engraved on the pen’s nib). At Maruzen’s Marunochi store, I ended up choosing the color “brick red” which was inspired by the bricks of buildings in the neighborhood. As I was ready to pay, the side of my eye caught sight of a placard that displayed a Custom 742, in the exact colorway and theme of the red bricks! It even had a special texture around its body. I had to get it, to match the content of the ink, naturally. Although this pen broke my 2023 pen rule (only 4 fountain pen purchases except when it's a green one). It is meant to be, and one does not defy serendipity when on a trip.
As for my other unplanned pen purchase, the Pilot Custom 823 in demonstrator colorway, it is a simple act of enabling by my podcast co-host Kelly, as simple as that.
Another holy grail visit on this trip was a trek to Jujo to visit the amazing Rainbowholic Kissaten, a literal stationery cafe! The neighborhood is a little bit out of the way and I’m sure the locals are bewildered by our group and wondered why we’re even there. The store is located in one of those Japanese shopping streets, a “shotengai” (covered streets, closed to traffic, and lined with stores and eateries on both sides). The exterior of her store has a charming window and displays her chunky hobonichis.
Kaila started her stationery venture through Patreon and I’ve been a part of her journey for a long time. It filled me with happiness to step foot in her tiny store filled with all the cute accessories and stories she has collected throughout the years. It is amazing to see all the collaboration she’s put together as well as the success in turning her journaling habit into a career.
Of course, we all ordered a dreamy cream soda for photo opportunities as we filled the rest of the store with enthusiasm (we were a huge party of 10+ people). I picked up a selection of sticker sheets from her collaborations, as well as a Mizutama tearaway calendar for 2024. I am a sucker for calendars and you might see me mention that again in a future Techo Kaigi round-up.
On the same day, we also visited Bungubox, a fountain pen boutique store, and their new location in Kanda. Navigating Tokyo’s narrow streets and alleyways is fun and exciting. It makes the experience of discovering the stores all the more rewarding. Bungubox features beautiful fountain pens, many of them their original designs with Sailor, Pilot, and more. I picked up two store-exclusive Sailor inks: Kanda Matsuri Sarugakucho, a rich blood orange, as well as the Quartier Latin Jimbocho, a brown ink that features a historic street filled with used bookstores and more. I was almost tempted to buy another fountain pen there (I won’t tell you which one), but thankfully our large group party steered me away from impulse shopping and I didn’t follow through with my whims.
Our last stop of the day was Tobichi, Hobonichi’s flagship store in Tokyo. Like Bungubox, they used to be in the Aoyama district but had also moved to the Kanda region! I love the new store and how spacious it is compared to the old building. It would be interesting to visit their new office building (above Tobichi), but someday.
I didn’t buy too much at Tobonichi because I’d already ordered everything I wanted via the Hobonichi online store, including the heavy brass banana (which added significantly to my suitcase weight, sadly). However, I was pleased to find that they carried some items from the Hobonichi Tori Dori lineup, a special bird mascot dressed in various styles in whimsical ways! I was so happy to pick up the mini Kinto bottle featuring the bird (“tori” in Japanese) as well as a pocket pouch with the birds in their necktie and bow fabric style.
It was a treat to complete the stationery mecca and hit up all these iconic stores with friends who shared the same interests. In my personal free time, I also squeezed in a quick visit to the TRAVELER’S FACTORY Tokyo Station in the underground shopping streets, as well as TAG Stationery store in Asakusa. I know I missed out on so many other stationery and art supplies stores such as Seikado, Kingdom Note,...and more, but my wallet breath a huge sigh of relief. I did enough damage as is.
Delicious moments in Tokyo
Finally, it wouldn’t be an April trip without a meticulously planned food itinerary. In fact, a lot of my plans in the city are designed around meals and food places I wanted to hit. Tokyo is a city that satisfies not just my stationery obsession, but also my adventurous palate.
I’m going dive right into one of my favorite dishes in Tokyo, the odd but delicious monjayaki. To some, it may look extremely unappetizing because it literally sits sizzling as a pile of goop on the hot griddle, a mixture of flour and ingredients. The fun part is poking at and retrieving the cooked lumps of batter using a little spatula. It originated as an idea to enjoy this food alongside friends and family as a snack.
I love adding mentaiko and cheese to the mix so it caramelizes and becomes crispy the longer it cooks on the pan. My favorite restaurant that serves this style of dish is Shichigosan in the Kappabashi district. They also cook and serve regular okonomiyaki, which is just as delicious.
Another delicacy I keep returning to on this trip is yakitori or grilled chicken skewers. We randomly chose a yakitori izakaya called Charcoal Grill Yamatake near our hotel one evening and discovered the place had no English menu. However, one of the servers is Taiwanese, so I was able to place our order for Elliot’s family using a mixture of Chinese, English, and Japanese across the table.
Delicious yakitori are typically grilled over charcoal, which gives it an enticing smell while also keeping the meat tender. Aside from the typical chicken thigh with green onion sticks, I thoroughly enjoyed the specialty parts: gizzard, liver, hearts, and chicken butt! It left such an impression that I went back a second time in the same week.
I enjoyed yakitori at another fun location while in Tokyo. On the dining level of Yebisu Garden Place Tower, you will be able to find delicious meals with a spectacular view of the city from high above. It was a favorite lunch location that my colleagues had treated me to several times, as the food was reasonably priced and the view amazing. We visited a yakitori place called Ebisuzaka Toriko. Our seats by the window had a grand view of Tokyo Tower. I enjoyed the lunch set with several skewers (deliciously seasoned liver and hearts!)
A few days later, we returned to Yebisu Garden Place Tower for another meal with the view. The Kintan Steak serves wagyu steaks on a hot plate in the “Western style”, and I had the best vegetable cream soup ever, paired with my beef tongue and steak platter. Fun fact, this restaurant uses a TRAVELER’S notebook as the cover of their wine list!
I brought Elliot to Tokyo in 2018 and we had delicious fried pork culet at Tonkatsu Maisen Aoyama. However, he was regretful that he didn’t get to order the limited quantity “Amai Yuwaku” (translated to sweet temptation) fried pork cutlet because we got there too late. In this redemption trip, we queued up in front of the main branch right before opening and luckily were able to secure three of the few limited sets available for the day. The batter is crispy and the meat is tender and juicy. It was one of the best tonkatsu I’ve had.
Another delicacy I enjoy eating in Japan is beef tongue. A dish popularized in Sendai and now a favorite all over Japan, it is one of my favorite beef parts. The thick-cut grilled beef tongue is chewy and decadent. When a friend visited a fun restaurant called Gyutan no Lemon, I had to give it a try.
The restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike. They pair specialty beef tongue dishes with lemonades that uses freshly squeezed lemon (that you juice yourself!) You can dip the meat in raw egg, or miso, or eat it plain with a little salt. Although it wasn’t until we sat down that I learned that my sister and my mom aren’t partial to beef tongue (they could’ve told me sooner!), I thoroughly enjoyed the meal.
Our family indulged in three splurges while in Tokyo, starting with the highlight that is Oniku Kayru. I still remember waiting online in front of my laptop a month ahead of the reservation date to try to snag a spot. It was expensive, but a thoroughly enjoyable wagyu omakase course meal. We were fed wagyu sushi, wagyu sashimi, wagyu hotpot with truffles, tender beef stew, and countless dishes honoring the best beef around the country.
A bite of our Kobe beef came with its own certificate! Although it was pricey, we felt that we would not have been able to enjoy such a meal anywhere else, so we had to try it.
Elliot and his dad both enjoy crab, so I booked another course meal featuring none other than the enormous king crab (from Hokkaido) at Katsukani Ryōri Ginza Kitafuku. The chef informed us that the catch of the day is especially large. It was a bit alarming to see the chef disassemble the live crab right in front of us (with incredible skill, of course), so we ate all of it reverently. Have you ever seen a crab leg bloom in water? Only the freshest leg will allow it to do that. The giant crab leg was served in three stages of doneness, sashimi style. It was an unforgettable meal for sure.
Finally, for Thanksgiving dinner, I booked a Korean-Japanese fusion barbecue course meal at Kabun Azabujuban.
I learned of this restaurant from a Korean mukbang YouTuber, and it was the first time I wanted to try something they ate so badly. The course meal was filled with a unique selection of wagyu beef parts, from short ribs to liver to hearts…every bite was amazing. They ended the course with kimchi fried rice topped with a silky smooth egg. It was definitely one of my favorite meals in Tokyo (and I would eat the whole thing all over again).
At this point, you might think, how about all the melon sodas? Yes, I had plenty of this delicious green drink during my time in Tokyo. It’s a popular soda float that can be found in most cafes. I enjoyed discovering them spontaneously at a coffee shop or old-school dessert places. I love my sweets in Tokyo, and I wish I had a second tummy to fit all the food I wanted to eat. Two particularly knock-out dessert places are Pierre Herme Aoyama and Japanese Ice Ouca.
If you visit the Oomotesando or Aoyama region, you must stop by Pierre Herme for their delicious macarons (not too sweet, but all the flavors) and pastries. My favorite is the Isaphan, made with his iconic rose-colored macaron, sandwiching a decadent pastry cream with lychee bits. I could eat 10 of those in one sitting.
Since we’re a large group of people, it gave me the excuse to try almost all of the desserts they offer. Towards the last day of my trip to Tokyo, I still cannot forget the delicate taste of their pistachio macaron, the best macaron in the world.
My second favorite dessert place in Tokyo is Japanese Ice Ouca, which is conveniently located in Ebisu near the station. They offer an incredible selection of gelato with Japanese-inspired flavors like baked sweet potato, regional apples or pear, brown sugar, and more. They serve the ice cream to you with a cup of hot tea, as well as a few pieces of salty konbu to help you clean your palate before the next flavor.
Cafe journaling in Tokyo
The problem with traveling with a large group of family is that you don’t get too much time to yourself. I envisioned myself leisurely journaling at a cafe around the city, enjoying the sweets alongside my TRAVELER’S notebook. However, when traveling, you often get too caught up in the next thing you want to see or places you got to be.
However, I was successful in squeezing in a few moments, here and there, to enjoy cafe journaling with my favorite stationery. The first location is at Starbucks Reserve Roastery in Nakameguro. This multi-story coffee shop is iconic because of its architectural design as well as its perfect location for cherry blossom viewing during the springtime.
On the third floor, the outdoor patio has a view of just the treetops of a row of cherry blossom trees. Although there isn’t too much of a “hanami” during the fall season, I enjoyed the benches that were designed to face outward towards the view, instead of at each other. I ordered a green tea ice cream float (that looks like a melon soda) for breakfast because I’m an adult, and huddled on my bench outside while the rest of the family enjoyed the warmth of indoor seats. It was during that moment that I got to relax and do some urban sketching while enjoying my drink.
I also enjoyed some journaling time at Ueno Park, moments after shuffling through the Claude Monet exhibit at the Royal Museum. It was the day after the extensive stationery day with friends, and I thought sitting out in the sun was going to help with my jet lag. We sat at the outdoor seat of a Starbucks, and were enjoying the local hustle and bustle until we got rained on by pesky tree sap from the nearby tree! It was comical, to get attacked by little black seeds coated with sticky substances that cling to your clothes. I withstood the barrage for only 15 minutes until I had to switch seats. It was an unforgettable experience for sure.
Towards the last days of my Tokyo trip, I also needed a refuge for myself while walking around Ginza. I took a friend’s recommendation to visit a retro coffee bar that operates late into the night. Cafe Bechet has a strict “less than 3 people” and “you can’t talk too loud” rule they made clear to each customer before they enter. The dark ambiance is complemented by a rich coffee scent as the two baristas/owners slowly brew hot water to make pour-overs. The reputation of the baristas is also infamous, you’ll get your coffee when you get it. Don’t even try to hurry them.
I got a counter seat along the wooden bar. I didn’t order a coffee (it was already 6 pm), but instead got my favorite royal milk tea. Unlike any other milk tea you would’ve had, which was brewed tea with a dash of milk, the barista slowly brewed and cooked my milk tea over the burner using a ceramic milk saucer. The result is a rich-tasting milk tea, steaming with black tea flavor. I finally got to enjoy journaling while sipping on my small cup of milk tea, savoring the taste, and thoroughly enjoying the experience.
There were plenty of moments during my trip when I whipped out my TRAVELER’S notebook for a photoshoot, or to collect train station stamps where they had them. Japan is the perfect country for analog lovers because each location you stop at doles out ephemera in the form of business cards, brochures, and even chopstick holders. And you bet that I kept every single one of them.
Since this wasn’t my first trip to Tokyo, sightseeing was last on my list. My priorities were at the stationery stores in the alleyways and local neighborhoods where I could get the best bite of food. It was probably because of this reason that I didn’t encounter the “big scary tourist crowd” that many travelers warned me of in Tokyo. The only times I felt swarmed were in Asakusa near the main gates of Sensoji, Shibuya crossing, and at the Character Street of Tokyo Station (but a Koupechan holiday wreath plushie was worth the crowd).
Towards the end of the week, I told Elliot that it almost felt like we were locals. Miraculously, my fluency in Japanese also improved for some reason, it’s as if a switch had flipped in my brain and I now speak the local language. I only wish that my physique was in even better shape because I can feel my feet gave out several nights when we stayed out too late. We’re greedy, greedy tourists, and there is too much to see, too little time.
Finally, I will share the second half of my trip: Kyoto and Kurashiki, in a future post soon!
This was such a great read. It should be made into a travel zine!
Thank you so so so much for sharing all of this! I've been to Japan once before and loved it, and can't wait to go back to explore all these stationery shops I hadn't seen. Everyone always mentions the big ones (Hands, TN, LOFT) but you also recommended so many gems I added to my list! I bet you have the best time journaling about all of your travels :)